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MODERN SCHOOL 
OF 

HAIR CULTURE 



MRS. BERTIE BRANDON SMITH, PRESIDENT 
MISS HELEN LAMBERT, Secretary 
MME. ELIZABETH LAMBERT, TREASURER 














































































































COPYRIGHTED BY 

MRS. BERTIE BRANDON SMITH 

19 2 3 

PINE BLUFF ■ ARKANSAS 


14 1924 


©C1A782189 


M4 j 


Modern School 

OF 

Hair Culture. 



MRS. BERTIE BRANDON SMITH_ President 

MISS HELEN LAMBERT_Secretary 

MME. ELIZABETH LAMBERT_Treasure 




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Instructions in Hair Culture 

LESSON NO. 1. 

This coarse consist of the following steps : 

Dry Cleaning.—-When a Customer comes in to get her 
hair treated, seat her at the place where the work is to be 
done, put a large towel around her shoulders. If she is 
wearing a high neck dress, it is to be unbuttoned and 
turned down. Now take the hair down and comb it. In 
combing and brushing the hair, always stand behind your 
Customer. Great patience is required in combing the hair 
hart the hair in the center from the front to the back, us¬ 
ing a coarse comb. Always comb the hair in strands; nev¬ 
er differently, no matter how great a hurry you may be in. 
Separate the hair and then brush from scalp to the u ds; 
when you have finished brushing the hair, it is ready to 
he shampooed. 

LESSON NO. 2. 

Shampooing.—Divide the hair in halves. Now, pin 
up the left side, leaving the right side down. Get a small 
galvanized tub; wet the right side of the head;—pour on 
the Shampoo mixture; rub this well into the scalp until a 
big lather is formed. Take your small fiesh brush and 
scrub the scalp good while the lather is thereon. After the 
the right side of the head has been thoroughly scrubbed ; 
then wash the lather out with a wash cloth—twist that side 
up. 

The left, side of the head is Shampooed in the same 
manner. If you have city water connected in your home 
you may use the wash basement instead of the galvanized 
tub or wash bowl. You are now ready for the rinse. Your 
combs, brushes, wash bowl or galvanized tub must all be 
steralized before using. 

LESSON NO. 3. 

Rinsing.—Take hair down, liold the head over a bowl 
or a small galvanized tub; fill your pitcher full of warm 
water; pour the water over your patrons head; you have 
rinsed all the soap substance out of the hair and it is per¬ 
fectly clean, it is now ready to dry; you need a comb and 




Mrs. Bertie Brandon Smith, 
President 





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brush, two pair of straightening irons, lamp, drying comb 
Pressing Oil and Hair Grower. 

LESSON NO. 4. 

Drying.—The hair is to be dried thoroughly. First, 
soak all the water you possible can from the hair with a 
turkish towel. When the hair is perfectly dry, it is to be 
combed; take one strand at a time and use a coarse comb; 
begin combing at the ends of the strands, then a little 
higher up and so on until you get to the scalp. 

LESSON NO. 5. 

Oiling.—After the hair has been thoroughly dried 
and combed, then apply the Pressing Oil; dip the tips of 
the first four fingers lightly in the box of Pressing Oil, 
then rub them together lightly, so as to distribute the 
Pressing Oil evenly over the fingers then apply to the hair, 
rubbing gently to the roots to the ends. Oil the entire 
head in this manner, being careful not to tangle the hair, 
then comb thoroughly. Now, twist the hair in small twist 
all over the head, vou are ready now to use the Drying 
Comb. 

LESSON NO. 6. 

Drying.—First take one twist of the hair down at a 
time. Heat the Drying Comb moderately hot, but before 
applying it to the hair, test (on piece) on a piece of clean 
white cloth; if the white cloth is scorched in the least by 
the comb, it is too hot to be applied to the hair;do not ap¬ 
ply the comb to the hair until it has been cooled sufficient¬ 
ly, so it will not scorch the cloth. Now, take the first 
twist of hair on-the right side of the head and comb it 
with the Drying Comb. You must continue to take one 
twist after another another and comb it until the entire 
head is combed in this manner, twist each twist back up 
again ; you are now ready for Pressing. 

LESSON NO. 7. 

Pressing.—First place the irons over a moderate blaze 
before applying to the hair, test on a piece of news piper ; 
if the paper is scorched in the least by the irons, then they 


are too hot to be applied to the hair; do not apply irons to 
the hair until they have they been cooled sufficiently, 
so they do not scortch the paper. Now take down the first 
twist of hair on the right side, comb it gently, then grasp 
the hair with the bulb of the irons as close as possible to 
the roots of the hair, being careful not to touch the scalp, 
be careful not to pull the hair, pressing it to the ends; ih<* 
hair is carried through the irons until the required straight 
ness is acquired. The entire head is pressed in this man¬ 
ner after the hair has been completed. Then touch the 
edges lightly with Pressing Oil beginning at the front and 
continuing around the entire head; then take your irons 
and heat them as stated above and touch up the entire 
edges in the same manner described at the beginning of 
pressing. 

LESSON NO. S. 

Scalp Treatment.—Suppose your Customer has a case 
of Dandruff, first prepare a dish of warm oil, heat the oil 
in the usual way that you would treat any liquid ; this may 
be olive oil. Now this oil is to be rubbed well into the 
scalp .with the tips of the fingers, after which the scalp is 
to be shampooed. Then vise the Modern Dandruff Oint¬ 
ment; it is to be applied lightly to the scalp. 

A case of Dandruff should be fully treated the man¬ 
ner already explained, once weekly. Between treatments 
your Patron should apply the Dandruff Ointment once ev¬ 
ery day. When the Dandruff has been exterminated from 
the scalp, the use of warm oil and the Modern Dandruff 
Ointment can be discontinued. You must use Modern 
Hair Grower—apply the Hair Grower to the scalp every 
two days as this keeps the scalp in good condition and 
promotes the growth of the hair. 

LESSON NO. 9. 

When your Customers come in to have their hair 
treated, if they have straight hair; first, you take her hair 
down and comb it. Always comb the hair in strands, nev 
er differently, no matter how great a hurry you may be in ; 
now you are ready for a Shampoo. The hair must be 
shampooed in the usual way and after you have shampoo- 



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I'd in the usuM wav and after you have shampooed the 
hair, then dry it in the usual way; when dry take 
y »ur couth and be-in combing, start at the end of the 
hair then comb a little higher up until you get to the seal]) 
part the ban in the center-middle. Take your brush 
and begin mushing from the scalp to the ends. This is 
done to bring out the natural gloss of the hair. Price of 
this treatment, is 50c. 

If your Customer has a dry scalp or brittle dull hair, 
use Modern ITair Lotion. Price 50c. 

If your Customer has straight hair, all you have to do 
is to shampoo, dry, comb and brush it. The price of this 
treatment is 50c. 

Modern Dandruff Ointment is to be used when you 
have a severe case of dandruff. Modern Hair Lotion 
should he used when the hair is dry, thin and falling fast. 
After you have treated the hair several times and have us¬ 
ed Modern Hair (irower and the hair still keep falling, 
then use Modern Hair Ointment. 

Shampooing 35c to 50c. Hair Dressing $1.00; first 
Treatment 50c every two weeks. Scalp Treatment 50c to 
75 cents. 

ARTIFICIAL HAIR. 

If a lady wishes to show a nice head of hair and she 
is justified in wearing some Artificial hair if she needs it; 
Artificial hair must he kept clean and when ever the head 
is shampooed the Artificial hair should also be shampooed. 
This can be done in the usual way just as the head is 
shampooed. Heat dries out Artificial hair so it looks false 
—so do not dry it with heat. When dried the hair should 
be brushed and a little Pressing Oil used,' this preserves 
and gives a natural gloss to the hair. 

A person should endeavor to avoid using brushes, 
combs, towels and other such things that served for anoth¬ 
er; many a case of baldness has been due to the use of one 
brush by several members of a family or club. 

RING WORMS AND SCRATCHING. 

Scratching always makes the skin or scalp ailment 


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considerable worse, Shampoo, use Modern Hair Ointment 
and use your Customers own comb and brush. 

Ring Worms which causes the loss of hair and also 
causes considerable misery, is a disorder due to a parasite 
and victims are usually children. The scalp becomes bald 
in patches, crust-form; the regular washing with shampoo 
and warm water and an application twice daily of Modern 
Hair Ointment will prove beneficial. The clearance of the 
scalp will be slow. 

WHAT TO DO ABOUT SPLITTING OP HAIR. 

The ends of the hair being farthest from the roots 
and the hair follicle may become dry and its fibres may 
separate; but this splitting of hair can be remedied by 
proper shampooing, pressing and use Hair Ointment. 

GROWING HAIR UNDER A WIG. 

It will be useless to tell your Customer that the Wig 
must be set aside entirely until hair has grown to satisfac¬ 
tory length, so you will need to compromise as tactfully as 
possible by requesting that the Wig be not worn when it 
can be avoided. A person who is really interested in ob¬ 
taining new luxuriant hair can find ways and means to 
put aside the Wig, it should not be worn when it can be 
avoided. 

Let me assume that a gentleman shows you a bald 
spot and ask you whether you can do anything to cause 
the hair to grow. Ask him in return to try to forget that 
he has used everything under the sun that some wise per¬ 
son lias stated, that when the hair is once lost it is gone 
forever and so on. Tell your prospective patron that you 
know the whole story of the bald-headed man and despite 
all that he has heard ^ you will give him some facts that 
he probably has not heard of before. 

Here is your argument: Most people do worse than 
neglect their hair, they damage it. Persons who have dry 
scalp or troubled with dandruff or falling hair, allow them 
selves to apply hair lotion or tonics and other advertised 
liquids that contain alcohol. This is as foolish as to use 
gasoline for the purpose of putting out fire; moreover, 
shampooing, while excellent in itself can not grow hair on 
















a dry scalp unless an oil of some kind is properly applied 
at the same time, and these are but two of several ways in 
which a person, either sex, may actually hasten the loss of 
hair while.hoping to save it or promote a new growth. The 
hair must be treated according to the condition of the 
scalp as' you find it upon examination.. 

Hair roots are very tenacious to life, often they are 
thought to be dead merely because the hair does not sprout 
from them. The fact is they are lying dormant within 
the follicle and are corked in by matter that lias been ex¬ 
cluded from the scalp. The effect is something like tulip 
bulb out of its prison, put it in the earth and encourage it 
with water, sunshine and fresh air, you will soon see a 
lovely tulip. Compare this to the hair, cleanse the scalp 
by shampooing, awaken the scalp energy by massage and 
you will open the follicle; at the same time giving the hair 
root a chance to develop and grow. Thus many a man 
and woman, bald for years has become blessed with a new 
luxuriant growth of hair under proper treatment: your pa 
tron should consent to a series of treatments twice a week. 
Plenty of sunshine and fresh air valuable in helping hair 
growth", advise your Customers; particular men, to without 
the use of their hats Whenever possible: the tight fitting 
hats worn by men are conducive to loss of hair. 

Care of the Hair and Scalp after Illness.—Many per¬ 
sons' place the date of their hair trouble or even complete 
to a time when they were seriously ill. There are cases of 
blood poisioning and fever which are chiefly responsible. 
Of course, what ever you do under such circumstances, 
while a physician is in charge of a patient, will be with 
his knowledge and permission. You should never apply 
anything to the scalp of a person who is ill unless the doc¬ 
tor approves, during the period that serious fever is run¬ 
ning its course: it is scarcely likely that the physician will 
allow you to do anything to the hair. Once it was the idea 
that hair should be off after a seige of fever. The notion 
is now out of date. 

There is no necessity even if the hair falls in what 
you consider alarming quantities, you need not worry, bv 
proper treatment you will get the scalp in a healthy condi¬ 
tion again. The first thing to do is to thoroughly saturate 


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the scalp with Modern Hair Lotion and then gently comb 
out the tangles with a wide teeth comb. It is probable that 
the natural oil of the scalp has been dried during the ill¬ 
ness and that the scalp is infested with seborrhea or dan¬ 
druff. Simply proceed to clean the scalp and hair, there¬ 
by, putting them into a normal condition by the use of 
Modern Hair Lotion and *by proper shampooing: in the ti¬ 
ll il rinsing the juice of a lemon should be added to the 
water. The rapid falling out of the hair, after the illness 
needs very careful attention, but should give no alarm. It 
is natures , way of getting rid of dangerous germs—the 
right thing to do, use Modern Hair Ointment. 

DRY SHAMPOO. 

If a person is shampooed every two weeks, in the reg¬ 
ular way, she can be subject to a Dry Shampoo . on alter¬ 
nate weeks. This will aid in getting the hair clean and 
will also act as a tonic. Seat your Customer in l front of 
the mirror instead of the bowl, put an apron or a towel 
around her, just the same way as you did for the wet 
shampoo. Take down the hair and comb it: use a clean 
comb and brush. Now, take hair and let it fall loosely all 
over the head. Next, the Dry Shampoo Powder, which 
should be in a generous size, shaker with a perforated top; 
some women use a glass salt shaker. This has a celluloid 
top with large holes and will just Hold enough powder for 
one head. After the hair has been combed, take it strand 
for strand and shake this powder into it. After you have 
shaken the powder all through the hair, the hair is brush¬ 
ed one strand at a time—pay greater attention to scalp. 
The brush should be of stiff bristles and the hair should 
be brushed in very thin strands in order to remove all the 
powder. 

When all of the powder has been removed and the 
hair looks glossy, you are through with your treatment 
your customer pins up her own hair. Price 35c. 

If a persons hair or scalp are excessively dry, partic¬ 
ularly, if the hair is brittle, you should recommend an oil 
rub one day before the wet shampoo. Modern Hair Oint¬ 
ment should be used. 

If a person’s hair and seal}) reveal an excess of oil, a. 


few drops of liquid ammonia or a little borax can be add¬ 
ed to the shampoo mixture. After you have cleansed ggay 
hair or white hair by shampooing, you may add a little 
laundry blueing to the water of the final rinsing; ibis is 
harmless and will give the hair a whitish shade after it lias 
been dried. 

■dyeing the hair. 

First of all tell your patron there is no such thing as 
a permanent change of color by any artificial process after 
the hair is darkened or bleached there must be repetition 
from time to time. 

How to • Color the Hair a Beautiful Brown.— First, 
wash the hair thoroughly, preferably using the shampoo 
process. When the hair has become fairly dry, divide it 
from ear to ear; pin up the back hair into a knot, so as to 
keep it out of the way ; part the hair in thin strands, be¬ 
ginning close at the roots, apply the paste thickly and ev¬ 
enly, working it in thoroughly, a tooth brush is recom¬ 
mended for this. Be careful to apply the paste to both 
sides of the strands; work the dye through the hair thor¬ 
oughly, so that is completely covered with it, allow to dry. 
Rinse the hair lightly with water—dry in the sunlight. 
The hair may be touched up whenever it is seemingly de¬ 
sirable to do so. Use Titian Hair Dye. 

BLACK OR DARK CHESTNUT HAIR. 

This is usually a very satisfactory process. The hair 
does not become dark immediately; several da vs may 
elapse before the first effects are seen, after which under 
repeated applications. The hair gradually darkens in such 
a pleasing manner as to the appearance of genuine resto¬ 
ration through improved vitality and health, from two to 
eight |weeks may be required to attain the satisfactory 
shade. After which it will remain well fixed and occasion 
al application should keep the hair beautiful in its appear¬ 
ance—use Hair Darkner: 

First, cleanse the scalp and hair by the shampooing 
process. When the hair is fairly dry, shake the bottle 
thorough 7 , because occasionally a person complain at slow- 



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Treasurer 


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ness of action, when the truth is, she has forgotten to 
sliake the bottle thoroughly. Pour a, small quantity of the 
liquid into a shallow dish; next take a piece of absorbent 
cotton ora soft Sponge, apply the preparation to the hair 
and rub well; repeat until all the hai# has been covered— 
apply Hair Darkner two or three times weekly until the 
hair is nicely darkened. 

HOW TO BLEACH THE HAIR TO A BLOND. 


First, cleanse the hair, shampooing is necessary; when 
drv, apply the bleaching liquid with a tooth brush just as 
you would apply hair dye. Let the hair become dry by 
sitting in the sun-light or you may use hot air dryer; use 
a piece of cheese cloth or valueless cloth that you are will¬ 
ing to throw away. The eyebrow^, mustache and beard 
can be treated the same as the hair upon the head. Arti¬ 
ficial hair may be dyed in practically the same manner as 
hair that is upon the head. 


HAIR DRESSING. 


Some customers have their own style in arranging 
their hair. You can gradually change their mind by us¬ 
ing tact and diplomacy. Always remember in dressing 
hair, no matter whether it be arranged loosely or smooth¬ 
ly or curled or plain, high or low, there must be left the 
sensation of snuggness next to the scalp; it may look like 
a slight movement would tumble the hair down, but it 
must only have this appearance—the Hair must be pinned 
closely and securely to the Customer that it may stay in its 
place as long as sh4 wishes and still give the effect of fluff, 
waving; do not have the hair to feel tight or drawn, 1>ut 
simply place every hair pin to its place. You can learn by 
watching another hair-dresser, practice dressing your own 
hair in any style that you wish. Learn first how to comb 
and -brush the hair. In this way you will become familar 
with handling it and the hair dressing part will be-easier. 

The more heads that you can practice upon, the bet¬ 
ter the work can be done. Some women, w r e know 1 , have 
a great deal more hair than others and strange as it may 
seem, it is much easier 4o dress a woman’s head if she has 
but little hair than if she has an abundance. You can al- 





ways add a light, lovely piece of hair, a transformation or 
a switch And the result will be a beautiful Coiffure. When 
she has an abundance of hair, you will some times have 
difficulty, as you cannot take any away. When you have 
become more experienced, you will find a place to arrange 
each strand becomingly. 

Hair dressing fashions change each season just as the 
styles of clothes. The principle of learning hair dressing 
is just the same as the principle of new style clothes; you 
are taught how to make the prevailing fashion in clothes, 
when learning if you have learned thoroughly, von will he 
able to make any kind of a costume. 

You must study the face of your Customer to see if 
the present fashion of Hair Dressing is becoming to her. 
Many women foolishly sacrifice beauty to wear anything 
that happens, to. be fashionable and many more ignorantly 
want what is most unbecoming, so you must use tact and 
diplomacy in suggesting styles. 

\\ lien your Customer 1 comes in, seat her in front of 
the mirror where the work is to de done; next, take down 
her hair and comb it. Part the hair center from the front 
to the back; next, comb the front hair from side to side;- 
next, take apart of the back hair and tie it. This makes 
a fastening point. \ou dress the hair as loosely as you 
wish, it will always stay tight when attached to this fasten 
ing point. 

Now, take up one of the front pieces, holding it in 
your left hand, comb it with your right hand; when high 
enough up, twist it; comb upward to the twist, to catch up 
all loose ends lay your comb down, at the same time, pick 
up a hair pin, now pin up this side that you twisted; go 
over to the other side and do the same thing. If you fail 
to get the side even you must try again until you do; you 
must work in front of a mirror ; you can watch your own 
movement, in this way, you will he able to get the sides 
even. 

You will now have the center back hair that you tied 
at the roots, hanging down for vour knot. If your Cus¬ 
tomer’s hair is short however and she uses a switch, put a 
hair pin in the little loop on top of the switch and pin it 
at the fastening point; twist the hair and put as many hair 


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and put as many hair pins on top as you need, where the 
left hand is holding the hair, this makes the projecting 
part of the knot. Now, bring the ends around and pin 
down all around; now, the Coiffure is finished.' If your 
Patron has usually long hiir, you can make a fancy knot; 
take the hair twist and pull it through a loop, then make 
another loop with the same hair and lay the knot Hat a- 
gainst the head, pin under the ends. ^ 

Hair Health from within, Study the following Rules: 
First, chew every mouthful of food thirty times before 
swallowing; a small amount of food masticated in this way 
will do far more good than a larger amount of food eaten 
rapidly. 

2 Stand in front of an open window without any 
tight-fitting apparel with the mouth closed, breathe the 
lungs full of air slowly and as deeply as possible; then 
open the mouth and exhale the air. I)o this six times 
each morning and night. 

8 Obtain a sufficiency of Asleep and rest, do not al¬ 
low pleasure to interfere with this. The most healthful 
sleep is obtained before midnight. 

4 Fat three eggs, raw, soft boiled or poached daily; 

eat beef, mutton or lamb every two days, avoid pork and 
veal. Drink one cup of coffee or tea daily; avoid bever¬ 
age containing alcohol. . 

5 The bowels should move regularly to overcome 
constipation. Drink several glasses of water daily; eat 
plenty of raw fruit, avoid candies and pastry; swallow a 
tablespoon of olive oil after each meal. 

WEAVING AND MANUFACTURING SWITCHES ETC 

No. 1 The Wea ving Sticks or Loom are so made that 
they may be fastened to a table or stand by wooden screws 
and are easily detached or adjusted. 

If fastened to a table it must be of sufficient length 
to allow the operator to weave on the threads that, run from 
one to the other. 

Weaving Sticks are made both of metal and wood and 
others are made of part metal and part wood. The latest 
kind is that on which the spools of thread are fastened 


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with thumb screw, saving the time of rewinding the thread 
on the spools, as it is used with the old style Weaving 
Loom. Another advantage is in this kind of a Loom, 
they never slip or loosen—keep the Loom in a dry place. 

FIRST WORK IN WEAVING. 

Always fumagate the hair with carbolic acid; drop 4 
or 5 drops of carbolic acid 'on a hot shovel near the hair 
and turn a tub or some other instrument over it for about 
0 or 8 minutes, then place out in the air, or you can put 
o or 6 drops of carbolic acid in a cup of water hot or cold 
water will do and sprinkle the hair and place in the air to 
drv. 

COMBING THE HAIR, 

Straighten out the hair by combing and. dividing in 
three different quantities if for a braid, then begin weav¬ 
ing a few strands at the time, when through, mount the 
braid with a mounting machine, the same as winding 
thread on a spool. 

Fill it by holding the cord and turning the machine 
backward or in the opposite direction from the way it 
should turn while mounting. 

Wind on the spool a sufficient amount for your switch 
which should be about a yard; begin by sewing the mount 
ing cord at the end of one of the shorter strandsv by hold¬ 
ing the hair in the left hand with the inner part of the 
strands toward you. Tins would be the part where the 
short ends protude at the top of the strands—it should be 
sewed. 

THE HACKLE. 

The Hackle is the first instrument used, and is for the 
purpose of straightening tangled hair or combings. It is 
made in two sizes, 1 and 2; where there is lots of work to 
done, in large parts, No. 2 would be the best size to select. 

The Hackle is fastened to the work stand or table by 
screws at each end and should be fastened so it can be easi¬ 
ly taken off to be clean, as when straightening hair it gets 
clogged with short hair. It should be cleaned with a hair 
pin or anything that will go between the teeth; the teeth 
in Hackle No. 1 and No. 2 are made the same, only one is 
larger. 


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WEAVING CURLS. 

Curls are made out of woven hair just about 2 inches 
wide. Weave a Curl in the same manner that you would 
weave-for a braid only 2 inches wide and one and a half 
inches long; if it is necessary for it to be made longer or 
wider, you can do it in the same manner. You can curl 
them with the curling irons, just as if the hair was curled 
on the head with the irons. If the hair is dry that it can 
not be curled with the irons, put a little Pressing Oil on 
the hair and it will curl nicely; be careful not to put too 
much oil on the hair and if you do put too much, take a 
piece of newspaper or a clean cloth and wipe it as dry as 
possible but not too dry. Curls are woven the same as 
switches and mounted the same, except that there is but 
one strand and no stem. 

PUFFS. 

Putfs are usually woven about nine inches long, made 
out of ten inch hair. They can be mounted on millinery 
braid and sewed back and forth making them about 2 to 2 
and 1-2 inches long. The millinerp braid should.extend 
about one and a half inches on each side. They should 
be done by rolling on the fingers, the same as the Puff de¬ 
scribed in Hair Dressing. Then fold the extended ends of 
the Millinery Braid on the inside to hold the Puff in place 
They can be made any style that you would like. Cluster 
of Puff, they are to be made on cheese cloth, the shape, of 
a human head. 

WIG MAKING. 

Weave the hair for the Wig in the same manner as 
you would weave hair to make a braid; the only differ¬ 
ence, twelve inches wide and seventeen inches long is to 
be woven for each side of the head; it is to be sewed on 
apiece of cheese cloth the color of the hair so that you 
cannot tell the cloth from the hair. 

The cloth must be the size of a small ordinary cap 
that it cannot be seen out from under the hair; you can 
use Combings or loose hair or you can order your hair. 


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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